Friday, January 11, 2013

The Eloquence of Stones


I have a special relationship with ruins (read archaeological sites). From childhood, history fascinated me, though I ended up studying sociology. History for me doesn’t mean the dates and years and dynasties, but the archaeological sites, the ruins of yesteryears. I was about eight years old, when I first visited ‘Kumhrar’ near Patna. The Kumhrar archaeological park houses the remains of the ancient city of Pataliputra, the capital of the Mauryan Empire. For an eight years old child, there was nothing special! The place looked barren except for excavated walls, pillars, bricks and other artifacts. But, I was captivated by Kumhrar. It’s etched in my memories.

During the visit, my father, nonchalantly, told me about Kumhrar’s importance; the dynasties that ruled from this place and so on. He has a lot of knowledge about these historical sites. I don’t know how interested I was in his information sharing, but the thought that this abandoned place might have been a bustling capital full of people and all kinds of activities many centuries ago, stayed in my mind. I tried to imagine the people who would have inhabited this place and carried on their daily activities; who would have walked on the way I was walking and touched the same walls, bricks and pillars that I was touching. I tried to picture the place when it was ‘alive’ and full of vitality.

Almost the same thoughts returned when I visited the Amer Fort near Jaipur recently (October 2012). Again, I was wonderstruck, not so much by the grandeur of the fort, but by the thought of how much these stones might have witnessed over a period of time. As mortal humans, we can never match their longevity and the experience that comes from this longevity. They have seen civilizations come into existence and vanish; dynasties come and go; and centuries roll over.

I feel that apart from the known history that these ruins tell, there might have been numerous untold stories hidden behind the decaying walls and stones. For a moment, leave aside the battles and wars fought between two kingdoms! These stones might have been mute spectators to so many unrevealed intrigues, conspiracies, fights and struggles within the royal families that inhabited them from time to time.

Almost all the ruins tell their own stories. Archaeologists try to understand those stories. From the Pharaoh’s pyramids to the Sun and Moon temples of the Incas to the ruins of the Indus Valley civilization, the history, as constructed by the archaeologists on the basis of studying the ruins and artifacts, is still shrouded in mystery.

All that we study in the name of history about civilizations that haven’t left any clear and written documents, is construed by the historians. And, they keep on refuting each other’s interpretations. The Indus signs and symbols engraved on clay tablets is one such evidence that is beyond historian’s interpretations. What if what they are saying is negated by the Indus valley ruins and the clay tablets. What if the Mohenjo-Daro citadel could say, ‘No, I beg to differ from your interpretation! You haven’t understood me correctly! I meant something entirely different!’